[30th July 1916] up the river and reached Kurna by 1.30 pm. Was received with information that Hamar lake was no longer navigable for steam-craft. I must go by the next bellum-convoy leaving in a few days. Unless the wind changes, this will mean being poled or towed by Arabs in open boats along the banks of the river for over 100 miles. We will be fortunate if we get through in a week and have to take ten days’ supplies.
I took up my abode in the rest house at Kurna; a stifling, bare, miserable Arab dwelling; in my experience the worst corner of Mesopotamia.
Stinks are one of the main features of Kurna. They surpass all Arab towns in their intensity and the richness of their variety. Very stuffy all day; much too hot and moist for any attempt to sleep. Capt. Newland